Pangaia Takes on Nylon with Bio-Based Alternative Made from Castor Oil

Eco fashion pioneer Pangaia has launched (gaia)PLNT Nylon, a sportswear capsule collection derived from a bio-based, fossil-free monomer.

British material science firm Pangaia has unveiled its latest sustainable clothing innovation, this time taking on the nylon industry.

Its latest capsule collection, called (gaia)PLNT Nylon, is centred around Evo, a 100% bio-based polyamide derived from castor bean oilseeds made by Italian textile company Fulgar. The four-strong performance wear lineup is available for a limited time, ranging from women’s skirt and unisex track pants to jackets for women and unisex applications.

According to the company, the collection “channels a utility-inspired silhouette, blending structured tailoring with crisp, architectural lines to embody quiet confidence in everyday wear”.

Why we need bio-based nylon

Invented by DuPont in 1938, Nylon was the world’s first fully synthetic polymer, and became popular for its durability, flexibility, and strength. It’s omnipresent today, appearing in clothing, seat belts, airbags, tents, parachutes, and even films for food packaging.

Since it’s a type of plastic that is primarily derived from fossil fuels now, nylon is highly problematic. On top of its sizeable carbon footprint, nylon is not biodegradable, and even with proper disposal, it can cause microplastic pollution and contaminate the waterways as the microfibres are often too small to be captured by many water treatment systems.

Further, producing nylon requires large amounts of water to cool down the fibres and facilitate the chemical reactions that turn them into cloth. In addition, the energy-intensive process generates nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas over 300 times more potent than CO2. In fact, to produce two square metres of nylon, the associated emissions are equal to driving 37km in a gas-powered car.

Pangaia claims Evo is a material that combines the strength and versatility of conventional nylon with a reduced environmental impact. It offers a high-performance, renewable alternative to fossil-derived synthetics.

It’s derived from castor bean plants, a resilient, non-GMO crop that requires minimal water, thrives in dry conditions, and doesn’t compete with food crops. It’s turned into Evo yarn via a low-impact process that lowers emissions by 25% compared to conventional polyamide, according to an ISO-certified life-cycle assessment.

How does the plant-derived nylon perform?

Pangaia’s process transforms renewable biomass into high-performance polymers, lowering the reliance on petrochemicals and offering a circular, responsible alternative without compromising strength.

Evo is 25% lighter than conventional polyester while maintaining high durability and covering power. The material provides superior moisture management, dries in half as much time as conventional nylon, and boasts natural thermal insulation to regulate body temperature. Plus, the yarn has an anti-bacterial property to control odour, making it suitable for both active and everyday wear.

According to Pangaia, each piece in the new collection is designed using “next-generation biomaterials” – although to note that the zippers are made with recycled PET tape. so not all aspects of the collection’s garments are degradable, which is an important point when considering an item’s end of life and how it can, or will, be disposed.

While innovative companies like Pangaia work to test a new generation of textiles, in reality some new materials are still being tested and better understood in terms of toxicity and environmental impact. One peer-reviewed study published last September showed that certain bioplastics can be just as toxic as petroleum-based versions, though this has has more to do with the chemical manufacturing processes and required additives to make them rather than their plant-derived origin.

Although the researchers looked at materials used for packaging – and castor bean fibres weren’t part of their study – it’s an important reminder that even bioplastics need to be tested and regulated for consumer safety (and transparency).

The launch is part of a growing market for bio-based nylon, which was valued at $1.8B in 2023 and set to double over the next decade. It comes as apparel and fashion brands face calls to decarbonise their offerings, with sustainability becoming a priority rather than an added benefit.

Fellow eco-materials firm Genomatica converts renewable carbon into the precursor to nylon, resulting in fermentation-derived nylon pellets and yarn. This innovation was used in a t-shirt line by activewear giant Lululemon in 2021, resulting in a 50% reduction in emissions compared to conventional nylon.

Pangaia itself retails a recycled nylon collection, featuring discarded materials like old fishing nets, fabric scraps, and industrial plastics,