José Andrés Serves Good Meat’s Cultivated Chicken at China Chilcano: ‘People Are Going to Be Talking’


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Both coasts have now had a taste of cultivated meat as chef José Andrés served Good Meat’s cultivated chicken last night after Upside Foods debuted its chicken in San Francisco last week.

In a tribute to the “godfather of cultivated meat,” Willem van Eelen, a select group of diners in Washington, D.C. were among the first in the U.S. to enjoy the first-ever sale of Good Meat’s cultivated chicken following its USDA approval.

Honoring cultivated meat’s history

The historic meal took place at China Chilcano, a restaurant by celebrated chef José Andrés, who honored van Eelen’s centennial birth anniversary with his specially created dish, “Anticuchos de Pollo” at the event last night.

Good Meat at China Chilcano
Good Meat at China Chilcano | Courtesy Ana Isabel Martinez Chamorro

Van Eelen, a Dutch researcher and prisoner of war, dedicated his life to creating a sustainable alternative to traditional meat production. He envisaged a world where meat could be grown from cells, not animals. Among those sampling Andrés’ creation were van Eelen’s daughter, Ira, and his grandson, Kick, who continue to champion the cultivated meat cause.

The charcoal-grilled cultivated chicken dish, featuring anticucho sauce, native potatoes, and ají Amarillo chimichurri, arrived just two weeks after Good Meat, a subsidiary of food technology company Eat Just, Inc., obtained U.S. regulatory approval to sell its chicken to American consumers. The public will have a chance to taste this revolutionary dish later this summer, with limited servings available weekly by reservation only.

‘People are going to be talking’

“I am proud that Good Meat is launching with José Andrés, beginning a new tradition of how Americans will eat meat in the many decades ahead. I am also humbled that our company can honor Willem van Eelen’s lasting legacy at this centennial celebration,” Josh Tetrick, co-founder and CEO of Good Meat and Eat Just, said in a statement.

“The big day is here, the chicken is here, and people are going to be talking,” Andrés said. “This is a first for the history of humanity.” Andrés said he chose the Peruvian concept for the debut as “Peru is a country of many civilizations at once.”

upside foods chicken at bar crenn
Chef Dominique Crenn served the first USDA-approved cultivated chicken in the U.S. | Courtesy Upside Foods

Van Eelen’s family also praised the moment. “I am grateful that a promise my father made decades ago has come true,” said Ira van Eelen. “I’m so happy we can stop talking about it and go eat it, because tasting is believing. This is the meat we love and trust, just made in a better way.”

The dinner follows just days after chef Dominique Crenn served Upside Foods’ cultivated chicken at her Bar Crenn in San Francisco. Both Good Meat and Upside Foods received USDA approval late last month.

Reservations for the Anticuchos de Pollo begin July 25, with availability from the week of July 31.

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